Fencing & Gates Questions

Sagging usually means a hinge has worked loose or the post it hangs from has shifted in the ground. Sticking is often the same cause, or the gate has swollen with moisture and is catching the frame. Check the post first, if it rocks at all, the hinge adjustment alone will not hold.

Fencing is quoted separately from other landscaping work, so you get a clear figure for that element alone. Most installations come in at £120-£280, varying with run length, panel style, and whether new posts are needed.

Wide openings, heavy gates, and automated or electric mechanisms all add to the cost. New concrete post foundations, difficult ground, or a sloped threshold also increase the price. A gate on an existing sound post with standard hinges sits at the lower end of £120-£280.

Fencing is quoted as a separate item, so any post replacement or groundwork needed is scoped and priced before work begins. If something unexpected is found once old posts are removed, the partner will discuss it with you before proceeding rather than adding cost without agreement.

It depends on the condition of what is already there. Sound, plumb posts can often be reused; posts that are rotted below ground, cracked, or out of line need replacing. Hinges are usually swapped when fitting a new gate, as worn hardware causes problems quickly on a new installation.

Gates are made or selected to match the measured opening, not the other way around. Before any work starts, the opening is measured precisely, including any slope on the threshold. A gate fitted to the wrong measurement will bind or leave gaps, so accurate measurement is the first step.

Fencing and gates work across all three, but the right style differs. Front boundaries often need lower or more open designs to meet planning rules. Side access gates are typically taller for security. Back garden fencing is usually the most flexible in terms of height and material choice.

In most cases, no. Permitted development rules allow boundary fences up to 2 metres high at the rear and 1 metre at the front without permission. Exceptions apply to listed buildings, conservation areas, and some new-build estates with restrictive covenants. Check with your local planning authority if you are unsure.

Panel style, timber species, and stain or paint colour can all be matched to existing sections. If the existing fence has weathered significantly, a fresh treatment across the whole run after installation gives the most consistent result.

Yes, but material choice matters more on exposed plots. Close-board fencing handles wind loading better than panel fencing because air passes through the slight gaps between boards rather than pushing against a solid face. Metal or pressure-treated hardwood posts outlast standard softwood in persistently wet ground conditions.

No, a single damaged panel can usually be replaced without touching the rest of the fence. The deciding factor is the posts: if the posts either side of the damaged panel are solid and upright, a panel swap is straightforward. Rotted or leaning posts mean more work regardless of panel condition.

Timber suits most domestic gardens and is easier to adjust on site; it does need periodic treatment to resist moisture. Steel or aluminium gates last longer with less maintenance and suit wider or heavier openings. For a front boundary with a wide span, metal is generally the more durable choice.

Repair works when the posts are solid and the damage is limited to one or two panels or a single hinge. If posts are rotted below ground level, leaning, or cracked at the base, replacement is more cost-effective than repeated repairs. A quick check of the post bases tells you most of what you need to know.

A loose hinge or a single snapped rail is a reasonable DIY fix. Anything involving post replacement means digging out old concrete and setting new posts correctly, a job where poor technique leads to a fence that fails again within a season. If the post is the problem, it is worth getting it done properly.

Yes. Our partners can supply and fit gates, sourcing the right size and style for your opening. Supply-and-fit is quoted as a single item, so you know the full cost upfront rather than managing separate suppliers.

New posts always require holes to be dug and concrete set, so some groundwork is standard. On a replacement job where existing post positions are reused, the groundwork is minimal. Sloped ground or soft soil may need additional preparation before posts can be set securely.

Old panels, posts, and concrete spoil are cleared and removed as part of the job. The ground around new post positions is made good once concrete has set. Any disturbed lawn or border edges are tidied before the team leaves.

A standard garden fence run of up to 20 metres typically takes one day. A single gate with new posts is usually a half-day job. Longer runs, difficult ground, or concrete that needs time to cure before hanging a gate can extend the timeline by a day.

Yes, heavy clay soil holds water around post bases, which accelerates rot in untreated timber and can cause concrete to heave over time. Posts in these conditions benefit from gravel backfill at the base to aid drainage before concrete is poured, reducing long-term movement and decay.

Not always. If the posts and surrounding panels are sound, a single panel swap may be enough. Rotten posts or repeated ground movement usually mean more of the run needs attention, the condition check before quoting will show which applies.

The most common causes are a loose or leaning post, worn hinges, or a frame that has warped. In Fenland ground, seasonal soil movement can shift the post itself. Checking alignment, post stability, and hinge condition shows whether adjustment or replacement is needed.

A loose panel puts extra load on adjacent posts, which can cause them to lean or fail. A gate that drags wears the hinge fixings faster, and a post that is already moving will worsen with each wet season, making the eventual repair larger and more costly.

Timber suits standard pedestrian widths and a traditional look, but needs the correct hinge rating for its weight. Metal is better for wider openings where a timber gate would flex and drop over time. The opening width and property style usually make the choice straightforward.

Posts, panels, gates, hinges, latches, fixings, and spoil removal are all included. Post excavation and concrete footings are part of the scope, not charged as extras. Each element, fencing, posts, gates, is quoted as a separate line so you can see exactly what you are paying for.

Timber will move slightly with seasonal moisture changes, that is normal. Posts set in concrete at the correct depth and panels fixed with adequate fixings minimise long-term movement. Treating or painting timber after fitting, and periodically thereafter, significantly extends its stable life.

Any fault that stems from the installation itself should be raised with the partner who carried out the work. Our partners are vetted independent tradespeople; contact us and we will connect you with the right person to resolve it promptly.

Our partners are vetted independent tradespeople who carry their own public liability insurance. Any accidental damage caused during the job is a matter for that insurance. Confirm cover with your partner before work starts, any reputable tradesperson will be happy to confirm their policy.