Decking Questions

Movement usually means the subframe posts have shifted, rotted at ground level, or were not set deep enough to begin with. On clay soil, ground heave in winter can also push posts out of position. Leaving it unaddressed worsens the structural problem and increases the risk of boards splitting or fixings failing.

Rot sets in when moisture cannot escape from the timber, usually because the deck sits too close to the ground, ventilation is blocked, or the wood was never treated properly. Softwood left without regular oiling or staining absorbs water and breaks down within a few years. Replacing affected boards without fixing the ventilation will cause the same problem to return.

Pooling happens when the deck is laid perfectly flat rather than with a slight fall away from the house, or when gaps between boards have closed due to swelling. Standing water accelerates rot and makes the surface slippery. Widening board gaps or adjusting the frame’s fall angle resolves it in most cases. Persistent pooling may point to a wider drainage issue.

Most decking installations come in at £1,200-£1,600, depending on the size of the area, the material chosen and the complexity of the frame. Composite boards cost more upfront than treated softwood but need less ongoing maintenance. A larger or raised deck with steps will sit at the higher end of that range.

The main factors are the deck’s footprint, the board material (softwood, hardwood or composite), and how much groundwork the frame needs. Sloping or uneven ground requires more substantial subframe work, which adds to the cost. Steps, balustrades and any drainage work underneath are quoted separately.

Quotes are itemised so you can see exactly what each element covers. Boards, joists, posts and fixings are typically included in the main installation price. Any additional elements such as steps, balustrades or edging are listed as separate line items so nothing is hidden.

Waste removal is quoted as a separate item rather than bundled into the installation price. This keeps the quote transparent, you only pay for clearance if it applies to your job. Confirm at the quoting stage so there are no surprises on the day.

Yes, decking can be laid over a solid existing patio using a treated timber or composite subframe to create a level surface. On uneven ground, adjustable feet or deeper posts are used to level the frame before boards go down. The key requirement is that the subframe is stable and properly ventilated underneath.

Decking is often the most practical solution for a sloping garden because the subframe can be built up on one side to create a level platform. Steeper slopes need deeper posts and bracing, which adds to the build time and cost. Steps or a split-level design can connect the deck to the rest of the garden.

Yes. Composite boards need only an occasional wash with soapy water, no annual oiling, staining or sanding. They will not splinter, warp or rot the way untreated softwood can. The higher upfront cost is offset by the time and money saved on maintenance over the life of the deck.

Decking suits most garden styles, contemporary, cottage or naturalistic, depending on the board colour, finish and how the edges are detailed. Composite boards come in a wide range of tones, while hardwood has a natural warmth that blends with planting. A garden design consultation can help you settle on the right look before work starts.

Under permitted development rules, a deck that raises the garden surface more than 30cm above ground level may require planning permission. Below that threshold, most domestic decks do not need consent, provided they are not in a conservation area or attached to a listed building. Always check with your local planning authority if you are unsure.

Composite decking handles persistently damp and freezing conditions better than softwood because it does not absorb water or rot. Timber decking can work, but it needs pressure-treated joists, adequate ground clearance for airflow, and regular maintenance. On ground that stays wet, improving drainage beneath the deck first will extend the life of any material.

Composite decking resists rot, fading and splintering without annual oiling or staining, making it lower maintenance than treated softwood. Softwood costs less upfront but needs regular treatment to stay sound. Hardwood sits between the two, durable and attractive, but it still requires periodic oiling to maintain its appearance.

A flat, small deck on level ground is within reach of a confident DIYer. Anything raised, on sloping ground or over 30cm high needs a properly engineered subframe and secure fixing, errors here create movement, rot and safety risks. Getting it fitted correctly from the start avoids costly remedial work later.

If you have a sound, level existing frame, boards-only supply and fitting is possible. Most jobs need a full installation, frame, posts, joists and boards, because an inadequate subframe causes the deck to move or rot prematurely. A site visit will confirm which option suits your ground conditions.

Decking raised on a frame allows water to pass through the gaps and drain away underneath, which can help in a garden that holds surface water. Paving, unless laid with permeable joints or a fall to a drain, tends to redirect water rather than absorb it. For serious drainage issues, addressing the underlying problem first will protect whichever surface you choose. See garden drainage options for more detail.

A straightforward ground-level deck up to around 20 square metres typically takes one to two days. Larger decks, raised platforms with steps, or jobs requiring significant groundwork take longer, three to five days is common. The exact duration depends on the size, ground conditions and any additional features such as balustrades.

Start dates depend on partner availability and how busy the current schedule is. Once you have an agreed quote, a start date is confirmed directly with the partner carrying out the work. Getting in touch sooner rather than later secures your place in the diary, particularly during spring and summer when demand is highest.

Decking work produces off-cuts, packaging and soil disturbance around post positions. Partners aim to keep the site tidy as work progresses. Waste removal is quoted separately, so confirm at the outset whether skip hire or a collection run is included in your quote.

The ground is cleared and levelled first, then posts or bearers are set and the joist frame is built. Once the frame is checked for level, boards are fixed down with the correct gap for drainage and expansion. Any steps, edging or finishing details are completed last before the site is tidied.

Yes. Clay soil shrinks in dry summers and swells in wet winters, which can shift post positions over time. Posts should be set on concrete pads or adjustable feet rather than directly into clay, and the frame should be checked for level periodically. Ignoring ground movement leads to a deck that rocks or develops uneven boards.

It depends on the frame condition. If joists are rotten, uneven, or spaced incorrectly for the new board material, replacing boards alone will not fix the problem. A site visit checks the subframe before any work is scoped or priced.

Composite needs no annual treatment and holds up better through wet winters. Timber costs less upfront but requires regular sealing or oiling to prevent splitting and greying. The right choice comes down to your budget and how much maintenance you want.

Yes. A raised joist frame compensates for uneven or sloping ground. The site visit measures the height difference and ground condition so the frame is built to the correct level from the start.

Rot spreads from boards into joists. Once the subframe is affected, the cost rises significantly because the entire frame needs replacing rather than boards alone. Catching it at the board stage keeps the job smaller.

The quote covers subframe, boards, fixings, fascia boards, and steps as a single scope. Each element is listed as a separate line so you can see exactly what is included before agreeing to the work.

The price depends on deck size, material choice, and whether a new subframe is needed. A site visit is needed to give an accurate figure, composite boards and a new raised frame cost more than a straight board replacement on an existing solid frame.

Guarantee terms vary by partner and are confirmed in writing before work starts. Ask for the specific guarantee period and what it covers, workmanship and materials are the two areas to check. Any guarantee should be provided in writing so you have a clear record if a problem arises.

The independent partners we connect customers with carry their own public liability insurance. Confirm the level of cover with your partner before work begins, and ask to see their certificate if you want reassurance. Never allow work to start without confirming insurance is in place.

We connect customers with vetted independent local partners who carry out decking installations regularly. When you make an enquiry, ask the partner about comparable jobs they have completed, a straightforward request that any experienced installer will be happy to answer.